Properly setting up a musical instrument allows it to speak with your voice. A good setup makes playing smoother and prolongs the instrument's life. Conversely, a poorly set up instrument causes fatigue and a constantly muddy sound. We often think of tuning, but setting up musical instruments goes much further. It involves mechanics, ergonomics, and stability. And yes, you can do a lot yourself, while knowing when to entrust certain tasks to a specialist.
Tuning or adjustment: making the distinction
First, it's helpful to clarify a few key distinctions in common terminology. There's a difference between tuning and regulating musical instruments. Tuning means raising the notes to the correct pitch, while regulating means bringing the instrument to its optimal performance state. This involves considering factors such as action, string height, intonation, air leakage, lubrication, component placement, and dynamic response. A musical instrument can be perfectly in tune for a few minutes, but then drift if the regulation isn't sound. Conversely, a well-regulated instrument tunes quickly, stays in tune throughout a set, and always responds predictably.
What the weather does to your instrument
In Montreal, as elsewhere in Canada, the seasons dictate their rhythm. Humidity and temperature alter the wood, metal, and glues. The result is visible everywhere: rising action, audible frizzen, sticking valves, and loose drumheads.
To prevent further damage and preserve your musical instrument:
- Keep the humidity around 40 to 50 percent for wooden instruments.
- Avoid sudden changes: temperate case, heating pad on winter tour, acclimatization break before opening the case.
- Oil the valves and grease the slides more often in winter.
- Monitor the truss rod adjustment in the fall and spring, when the wood moves the most.
A hygrometer is inexpensive and saves you a lot of trouble. A guitar or piano humidifier is often the most cost-effective accessory you can buy.
If you are thinking of going on a show or if you want to buy your accessories, you can use the services of stage experts like those at Boite à musique.
Toolkit: What you really need for tuning musical instruments
A kit covers 90% of situations. We avoid approximate tools, we prioritize precision.
- Reliable tuner with stroboscopic display
- Set of metric and imperial Allen keys
- Good quality Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
- Steel ruler and shims
- Rope cutters
- Targeted lubricants: light oil, grease for sliding mechanisms, grease for corks
- Wood leak paper
- Headlamp, magnifying glass, microfiber cloths
- A notepad for recording measurements
All of these accessories can be found in stores if you are in the Montreal area.
Useful guidelines for your musical instrument settings, by category
Here are some reference values to get you started. They serve as a basis, to be adapted according to technique, style, strings and attack.
Family | Key settings | Reference values |
Electric guitar | Relief, action, intonation, microphone height | Relief 0.10 to 0.25 mm at the 7th fret; action 1.5 to 2.0 mm on the treble side, 2.0 to 2.5 mm on the bass side at the 12th fret; pickups 1.5 to 2.5 mm below the fretted string at the last fret |
Electric bass | Relief, action, intonation | Relief 0.20 to 0.35 mm; action 2.0 to 2.5 mm treble side, 2.5 to 3.0 mm bass side |
Acoustic guitar | Relief, action, nut and bridge | Relief 0.15 to 0.30 mm; action 2.0 mm treble, 2.5 to 3.0 mm bass at the 12th |
Violin/Viola | String height, bridge position, tension of the fine tuners | E at 3 mm, G at 5 mm at the end of the fingerboard; bridge centered, upright |
Cello | String height, bridge position | A 5 to 5.5 mm, C 7 to 8 mm at the end of the key |
Woodwind instruments (clarinet, saxophone) | Waterproofing, key height, reeds, corks | Zero leakage, synchronized keys, reeds adapted to the mouthpiece and breath |
Brass instruments | Slides, pistons/rotors, mouth | Tuning slide marked for 440 or 442 Hz, free-moving pistons, no leakage |
Battery | Uniform tension, striking/resonance head relationship, snare drum timbre | Toms: resonance equal to or slightly higher; snare drum: higher resonance; bass drum: slightly lower resonance for more impact |
Piano | Tuning, regulation, harmonization | Stable humidity 42 to 48 percent; regulated by a technician |
Plucked strings: guitar and bass, electric and acoustic
A simple and reliable approach follows this order: relief, action, intonation, then microphone height.
Position the handle at the correct relief
- Capo on the 1st fret, hold the string on the last fret.
- Measure the gap at the 7th or 8th. Look for 0.10 to 0.25 mm for the guitar, 0.20 to 0.35 mm for the bass.
- Adjust the truss rod in micro-increments. A maximum of a quarter turn, let it rest, then measure again.
Adjusting the action at the easel
- Measure at the 12th fret.
- Raise or lower the bridges to reach your targets. Level the curve according to the radius of the strike.
Correct the intonation
- Tune carefully without opening the instrument.
- Compare the note at the 12th fret with the octave. If it's too high, move the bridge back. If it's too low, move it forward.
- Repeat after each adjustment.
Adjust the height of the microphones
- With the frets pressed to the last position, measure the gap. A starting point: 1.5 to 2.0 mm for single coil, 2.0 to 2.5 mm for double coil on the treble side, a little more on the bass side to avoid magnetic suction.
Quick Tips:
- Quick Tips:
- Buzzing everywhere, especially when playing loudly, points to an action that is too low or uneven frets.
- Harsh harmonics or a note that beats on certain frets suggest an intonation that needs reviewing.
For acoustics, the bridge saddle is crucial. If the action is too high despite a good relief, a careful reduction of the saddle can help. Material is removed from the bottom, keeping it very flat, and measurements are taken frequently. If you're unsure, entrust this step to a specialist in lutes and other stringed instruments.
Bowed strings: violin, viola, cello and double bass
For violin, viola and cello, there are a few safe steps to take at home:
- Check that the bridge is straight, with the face towards the soundpost slightly inclined towards the tailpiece.
- Center the easel between the notches of the soundholes, feet firmly in place.
- Use tensioners for fine tuning, especially in dry weather.
- Replace the bow reeds in time and maintain moderate bow hair tension.
Avoid altering the bridge's soundboard and flatness without the proper tools and experience. Adjusting these parts can transform the instrument, for better or for worse.
Useful references:
- String height at the end of the fingerboard, violin: E at 3 mm, G at 5 mm.
- The tailpiece angle and the bridge's vibration freedom directly influence projection. A drop of graphite in the slots can reduce squeaking during tuning.
Woodwind and brass instruments: flute, clarinet, saxophone
A well-tuned clarinet or saxophone breathes without unnecessary resistance. A flute without leaks responds with greater agility to pianissimo. A cornet with smooth valves accompanies you without ever faltering.
Wood :
- Check for leaks with a lamp and leak test paper. A very slight resistance is normal; no audible air leaks.
- Adjust the key stops in small increments if the heights are out of sync. Record the screw turns to reverse the adjustment.
- Choose the reed strength that matches your breath and embouchure. Change reeds regularly, alternating them to make them last longer.
- Grease the corks lightly and frequently. Clean the spout weekly.
Brass:
- Oil the pistons before each important practice or rehearsal.
- Grease the slides monthly, more often in winter.
- Mark the tuning slide position for 440 or 442 Hz depending on the context. Warm up the instrument before tuning.
- Inspect for saliva and deposits, then thoroughly clean in a warm bath with mild soap at regular intervals. Dry the pistons and chambers well.
Quick test: if a note projects well when played loudly but falls flat when played softly, a leak is likely the cause. If the tone lacks consistency from one fingering to another, check the key height or the flatness of the pads.
Drums: tuning musical instruments
A snare drum with bite, toms that resonate with warmth and a bass drum with drive, it all depends on the balance between the batter head and the resonant head.
Simple method:
- Loosen, then tighten each strap with your finger until contact.
- Tighten in a star pattern, a quarter turn at a time.
- Tap 2 cm of the tie rod with a stick, even out the height at all points.
- Adjust the tom's resonant head to be equal to or slightly higher than the striking surface for a singing sustain. A little lower will produce a rounder note with less sustain.
- On the snare drum, the resonating head is generally higher. Adjust the snares so they buzz just enough for sensitivity without muting the body.
- Bass drum: medium to firm strike for response, slightly lower resonance for punch. Add drum pads or cushions depending on the style.
Common mistakes:
- Uneven tension around the same barrel.
- Tightening the snare drum snares too much will muffle everything.
- Forgetting to let the battery stabilize for a few minutes after installation to make a final correction.
Piano: stability and touch
The piano combines tuning, regulation, and voicing. Tuning adjusts the pitch. Regulation synchronizes all the mechanical parameters: key travel, escapement, and repetition. Voicing shapes the tone through the sharpening and shaping of the hammers.
Things to watch out for:
- Stable humidity between 42 and 48 percent. An integrated control system helps during our dry winters.
- Position the piano away from heating vents and windows in direct sunlight.
- Gentle cleaning of the keys and accessible soundboard, without solvents.
- Tuning twice a year for home use, more often for the stage.
- Regulation and harmonization every few years depending on the intensity of play.
Signs that regulation is needed: notes that double-strike, escapement too late, strong difference in resistance between the keys, compressed dynamics in the pianissimo.
Electronics and hybrids: calibrating the feel, not just the volume
Electronic instruments are not exempt from the adjustments required for musical instruments. These adjustments include latency, velocity curve, noise reduction, and ergonomics.
- Update the firmware and drivers.
- Calibrate the sustain pedal and aftertouch sensors.
- Adjust the velocity curve to match your playing style. A curve that is too flat is tiring, while a curve that is too aggressive makes the piano unplayable smoothly.
- Eliminate ground loops with a clean power supply, quality cables and, if necessary, an audio isolator.
- Adjust the gain staging: highest possible signal without clipping at each link, for a low noise floor.
For guitars equipped with active pickups, check the battery before shows and keep a spare battery in the case.
Quick musical instrument diagnosis: where does the problem come from?
An effective diagnosis avoids unnecessary screwdriver work.
- The sound buzzes on only certain frets: too straight a relief or high fret.
- The intonation is good when open but unstable when barred: nut grooves too high or poorly profiled.
- The sax responds poorly to piano playing: slight leak at the pads or a tired reed.
- The pistons stick after a few minutes: incompatible oil residue or a dirty chamber.
- The bass drum lacks impact on stage, while everything is fine in the studio: batter/resonance head relationship and micro-placement need to be reviewed.
- The piano quickly goes out of tune after being moved: the magnitude of the climate change and the stretching of the strings make it advisable to call a tuner.
How often should I intervene?
The right rhythm depends on the use and the season. Here is a simple schedule.
Instrument | Frequency of checks | Typical interventions |
Guitar/Bass | With each change of season, or if the action moves | Relief, action, intonation, fret cleaning, screw check |
Violin/Viola/Cello | Monthly, and after major changes in humidity | Bridge adjustment, tensioner check, strings |
Wood | Monthly, more often if touring | Cork grease, reeds, sealing, micro-adjustment of stops |
Brass instruments | Weekly for oil, monthly for cleaning | Piston oil, sliding joint grease, periodic warm bath |
Battery | Each edit, and touch-ups during the session | Tension standardization, timbre, muffling |
Piano | Tuning every six months, adjustment according to usage | Harmonization, humidity control, regulation and harmonization as needed |
Electronic | Quarterly, or after updates | Calibrations, velocity curves, wiring verification |
Common mistakes that can be avoided
- Turning the truss rod too much at once. Always make small adjustments, with the instrument tuned, and pause between adjustments.
- Pursuing a buzz by lowering the stock price instead of correcting the relief or a fret.
- Adjusting the intonation with worn strings.
- Overtightening the bridge screws deforms them.
- Forget about the temperature. Tuning a cold instrument gives bad readings.
- On wood, remedying a leak by tightening the stops, when the pad is simply worn.
- On brass engines, mixing incompatible oils causes the pistons to gum up.
- Overtightening the resonant heads of the toms in the hope of more projection, at the expense of the body of the sound.
Before touching the screws: safe method
Good preparation saves hours:
- Take photos of the initial positions.
- Measure and record. Repeat after each step.
- Proceed with one variable at a time.
- Readjust between each adjustment to properly evaluate.
- Let it rest, then play again the next day. The wood settles, the skin stabilizes, the impressions become more refined.
Practical tip: keep a card for each instrument, noting the date, measurements, strings or reeds used, humidity, and playing experience. This will save you a ton of time the next time the seasons change.
Customize the setting according to your music style
- Rock and metal on electric guitar: slightly lower action on the treble side for speed, pickups slightly closer for more bite, but beware of magnetic pull.
- Jazz on archtop guitar: slightly higher action for projection, heavier strings, minimal relief for a clean swing.
- Funk bass: low action but perfect control of the contour, surgical intonation, well-anchored bridge for clarity of attack.
- Classical violin: balance between flexibility and projection, traditional string height, finely adjusted bridge.
- Pop alto sax: slightly more flexible reed, mouthpiece opening adapted for flexibility, impeccable pads for microphone precision.
- Drums in the studio: equal tensions, slightly higher resonance on the toms, discreet muffling, precise tuning to the notes of the song.
- Piano solo: stable humidity, tuning close to the date of the concert, slight voicing to homogenize the registers.
When to call a pro
Some tasks require a trained eye and hand.
- Fret flatness, new nut, headstock fracture, cracks.
- Soul displacement and detailed shaping of the easel.
- Replacement of pads and re-gluing of studs onto wood.
- Brass dent removal, balance wheel and silencer adjustment.
- Complete piano regulation and voicing.
- Internal electronic repair, mains power supply.
A good guideline: if the necessary tool is not in the basic kit, or if the adjustment involves the structure, it is best to entrust the task to a specialist.
Case study: stock that climbs in spring
Common scenario: Your acoustic guitar was perfect in February, then the stock rose in May. Quick fix:
- Measure the relief. It has increased by 0.15 mm. Correct with an eighth of a turn on the truss rod to return to 0.20 mm.
- Measure the action at 1/12th. It's still a little high. Check the bridge saddle. If there's room, remove a thin layer from the bottom, keeping the angle of attack towards the soundboard.
- Tune, play, reassess the next day. Keep a note of the humidity. If the house is at 60 percent, consider a dehumidifier.
Result: sensation restored, stable intonation, no buzzing.
A little routine before rehearsal or show
• Tun while still warm, after a few minutes of playing.
• Validate two or three more delicate notes specific to your instrument.
• Tighten any visible screws as needed, without overtightening.
• Clean the contact areas: keys, string under the fingers, mouthpiece, mouthpiece.
• For woodwind and brass instruments, a prolonged blow to stabilize the temperature before the first piece.
• A final low-volume sound check to detect any buzzing or a faulty cable.
A well-thought-out setup, or "instrument setup," remains a guarantee of sound quality. It preserves the instrument, reduces stress, and makes you want to play more. With a few tools, meticulous attention to detail, and a proven method, you can already achieve a great deal.
Feel free to follow us on www.boutique.boiteamusique.ca if you have any needs in terms of settings!